Wednesday, January 27

From Joburg to Jozi

The new edition of From Joburg to Jozi: Stories about Africa's infamous city is out from Penguin Books as of 1 Feb 2010. Edited by Heidi Holland (Dinner with Mugabe among others) and Adam Roberts (The Wonga Coup among others).

Stories, memoir, commentary, poetry contributed by many, including a story from yours truly (titled The Staying Ground).

All proceeds to Cotlands, who care for orphaned kids with HIV/Aids.

A great way to get beneath the surface of a city that millions call home but that millions more are terrified of. Paired with Stephen Watson's edited volume, A City Imagined (about Cape Town), makes a great way to understand South Africa through its two largest cities.

Makes a great gift, and supports a worthy cause.

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Saturday, January 9

S Africa the hot destination again

Yes, yes the FIFA World Cup™ will be in South Africa in 2010, but that's just for 2 months, and soccer fans are a non-traditional tourism crowd - they follow the tournament, wherever it goes. The New York Times, however, has seen that the country is a hot destination in any case. Some may think it's because of the soccer, others in spite of it. The fact is, South Africa was listed as 22nd of 31 'Places to Go in 2010'. From the article:

As host of the 2010 World Cup this summer, South Africa has gotten its game on with a flurry of new stadiums, new hotels and safari lodges.

While soccer is being played across nine cities, much of the action off the field is taking place in Cape Town. Already known for its stunning beaches, mouthwatering cuisine and sophisticated night life, the city is welcoming high-end hotels, including the recently opened One & Only Cape Town and the forthcoming Taj Cape Town (www.tajhotels.com/capetown). Set to open this month, the Taj will have 166 rooms, many with views of Table Mountain. Also scheduled to open in Cape Town this year — but not in time for the World Cup — is the second branch of the nascent Missoni Hotels group (the first property opened in Edinburgh last year, with future outposts planned for Kuwait, Brazil and Oman).

Between matches, there’s plenty of time to go on a safari. If money is no object, check out the Ulusaba (www.ulusaba.virgin.com), a private game reserve that’s part of Richard Branson’s collection of luxury vacation properties. It has opened the new Cliff Lodge, with private swimming pools and spectacular views of the bush. Prices start at 13,800 South African rand (around $1,878 at 7.35 rand to the dollar) a night for two. — Denny Lee

A nice bit of promotion for the Mother City in there, but frustrating that their entire view of the country was through the lens of ultra-super-mega high-end accommodation. The One & Only is a soulless generic palace. Ulusaba? Lovely, but it's all about the wildlife - you see the same leopard for half the price (or one-tenth, for that matter). And it's not new. So there.

Ah, well. I suppose in the world of publicity, no coverage is bad coverage, right? Oy! How about a bit of culture?



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Thursday, January 7

Frog Safari

Yes, you read that right. FROG SAFARI. Don't scoff - this is not only interesting and ecologically important, but a full-bore eco-tourism initiative and in a gorgeous location in South Africa's Eastern Cape province to boot - St Francis Bay. Lekker!

Intrepid writer and RT expert, Helen Turnbull, penned this one for Responsible Traveller magazine, and they agreed to let Afrika T publish it as well. Helen also wrote a piece for Afrika T on eco- and ethical issues around Great White Shark cage diving. If you haven't seen that one, it's well worth a squizz too. (but after the frog safari, please...)


Frogs On The Frontline

It is with more than a hint of curiosity and amusement that I find myself out in the black velvet night on foot – well in gumboots actually - in the bush. Ankle deep in authentic local mud, without a beauty therapist in sight, and armed only with a net and a head torch. I am on the edge of a reed bed, in amongst a small group of fellow enthusiasts enjoying a new edge to Eastern Cape hospitality - a frog safari. After dark is apparently the best time to hear the full extent of an amphibian orchestra, and to get close up and personal with frogs and toads. The decibel level of the surrounding frog oratory was overwhelming, leaving a strange ringing sensation in the ears as we walked around the banks of the waterhole.

To sudden squeals of delight and astonishment we all crowd around to look at a delicate striped reed frog, cleverly concealed on the side of a thin reed blade itself. As the evening went on, we got to see more reed frogs as well as a number of other unusual and colourful species, both in and out of the water, thanks to the expertise of resident frog spotter and ranger, Warren.

Offering the first frog safari in this particular area, the initiative was started by Brent and Chantelle Cook, owners of The Dunes Country House. The Dunes is situated on a 600 hectare nature reserve in St Francis Bay, and as environmentally committed custodians of pristine land and a vast ancient sand dune system, Brent and Chantelle are continually on a mission to manage the resources in their care responsibly. As part of a long-term sustainable tourism project, they were in the process of removing an area of alien vegetation along one border of the property, when suspicions were raised that it might well be part of an underlying wetland system. As time went on and the removal become more extensive, it started to attract a number of new residents, primarily different frog species, one a particularly rare sand toad, confirming the potential success of a wetland area rehabilitation.

It is perhaps coincidental that on a global scale, frogs and toads are incredibly threatened, due to the ongoing destruction of habitat and pollution. Here in South Africa, we are fortunate to have over 37 healthy frog and toad species in existence, and it is attracting increasing interest. Frogs and toads are known as an ‘indicator species’, which means that the presence of these animals correlates closely with the health of the environment around them. They have thin skins, and this makes them easily susceptible to external changes, and therefore any contaminants present in the atmosphere or the surroundings can be absorbed quickly.

An international campaign has been established to support and promote the survival of the worlds’ amphibians and is known as the ‘Amphibian Ark.' South Africa is one of the countries involved in helping to raise awareness around the challenges that modern frogs and toads face in their fight for survival. As things stand, 50% of all amphibian species are currently threatened with extinction, and it is known that 500 species will not be able to avoid extinction, even if measures were put in place now to help them. The Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town is a partner in the initiative and has a dedicated and quite delightful frog exhibit in Cape Town, in partnership with the Amphibian Ark project.

The frog safari season is unfortunately a relatively short one, so in order to take full advantage a trip has to be planned carefully between the months of November and April. These are traditionally the warmer months, and once the autumn chill sets in many amphibians quite logically hibernate or become less active.

The Dunes however, can offer a variety of temptations to encourage a visit all year round, and makes full use of its unique nature based setting and favourable climate. Warren offers guided walks and trails into the fynbos vegetation of the reserve extending out into the dunes, where fascinating historical shell middens are in abundance. Vibrant bird life is evident all around. The dune system is breathtakingly awesome, almost lunar in its vastness, but extremely diverse in terms of its wildlife and flora. And after a rigorous frolic in the outdoors, what better than return to the cosseting and care of genuine and warm Eastern Cape hospitality Dunes style. The price of a Dunes getaway is very reasonable too, and shouldn’t warrant that much of an excuse to take time out.

On quiet reflection, it was in December that tourists visiting The Dunes were first given the opportunity to go out on the evening nature reserve drive and adventure to uncover the secret lives of the nocturnal amphibians living on the reserve. The positive feedback it has received has since seen it become a firm favourite on the Dunes activity list, and in turn it reinforces the value of the personal investment that Brent and Chantelle have made. As a special reminder of their experience guests can purchase a small beaded frog token, and a percentage of this revenue goes directly into financing the continuation of this vital wildlife conservation project. After all, it is not everyday one gets an excuse to play in the mud for a good cause and along with it enjoy an evening of fun that is ‘unfrogettable’ !

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Friday, December 18

Dietary laws for third-world travellers (derived from unfortunate experience)

When you’re roughing it in some exotic locale to get that authentic cultural experience, sometimes it’s hard to know what from the menu can condemn you to quality time with the longdrop while your travelling companions are off bagging trophies in the marketplace, photographing rare fauna, and generally having the trip of a lifetime. Was it the boiled goat and mealiepap you ate with your hands? Local chai made with well water? Fish brought from the coast on a bus? (And it isn’t always the strange stuff that causes trouble. One dodgy leaf of lettuce can lay low the mighty.)

"Is it safe to drink the water? Can I eat what the locals offer me?" People worry about this all the time - I know, because they ask me. Personally, I worry more about being impolite or missing a meaningful connection with a new culture I'm trying to learn about. But I have paid the price on more than one occasion.

Let’s face it – the immune systems of people living in the ‘first world’ are fragile, and unless you have a few weeks to allow your gut to be colonized by the native bacteria, most travellers are better off playing it safe when dining with the 90% of humanity who don’t rely on Brita filters, antibacterial soap, or the services of the grocery-industrial complex.

Here are ten - well, OK, they aren’t laws, strictly speaking - but these are ten helpful rules learned the hard way, compiled from foreign correspondents, field biologists, adventure travel guides, wildlife photographers, seasoned travellers and unfortunate personal experience:
  1. Avoid the raw stuff. Go for whatever’s been boiled or, as a friend puts it, ‘cauterized’ over fire. Helpful hint: learn how to say “well done”, or “fully cooked” in the local lingo.
  2. If there’s a choice of meat, chicken is the safer option – and avoid ‘bushmeat.’ No need to go into the sordid details about animal diets, parasites and the hygiene of slaughtering, just remember ‘if in doubt, choose the chicken.’ Memorise this.
  3. Seek out the high-traffic eateries. Higher volume usually means fresher ingredients.
  4. Don’t nibble that cold garnish unless it’s swimming in vinegar. (Supposedly there’s enough vinegar in mayonnaise to make it safe even without refrigeration, but I don’t trust anything handmade with raw egg that’s over an hour old.) Some swear that really hot chillies also kill the microbes, but the truth is that garlic, onions, oregano and allspice work best, while chillies only whack 75% of bacteria. Unless you know what’s in it, avoid it – heat won’t tell you.
  5. What’s on your hands is usually worse than what’s in the food, so religiously wash your hands before you eat, and make sure they’re thoroughly dry. Anti-bacterial gels not necessary - a normal bar of soap will do (you may want to carry one…can be hard to find on short notice).
  6. Eat fruit only if it has to be peeled to get at the edible bits. And if it hasn’t been rinsed after being peeled.
  7. Yes, don’t drink the tap water (or if it comes from a well, stream, lake or borehole), but don’t brush your teeth with it either. Or rinse your food in it.
  8. Anything over forty percent alcohol is generally OK to drink, but to be safest, go for the 60%-plus stuff and dilute with clean water (or don’t) And if it comes in a Johnnie Walker Red bottle, don’t trust that that’s what’s actually in there. This is the voice of experience speaking here.
  9. Beer, Coke and Fanta in glass bottles are pretty darn safe. But if drinking from a can, use a straw.
  10. Question every ice cube's origins - if in the slightest doubt, drink it warm.
And the corollary: Pack Imodium (and TP).

Let’s be clear: no set of rules can protect you from all the hazards, but if something you ate is returning the favour, at least the stories you’ll be able to tell of that near-death experience in a remote village will be priceless (not to mention the video your friends will have of you wide-eyed and scrambling for the loo).

Of course, some would argue that a true gourmet will cast all rules aside and indulge in the local culinary delicacies, fearless about whatever may come.

Fresh mopane worms, anyone?

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Sunday, December 13

Pink Flamingo funky film venue - Cape Town

You may know all about the funky trailer park on top of the stylish Grand Daddy Hotel on Long Street, smack in the vibey heart of Cape Town. But the newest twist of fun in the trailer park is the Pink Flamingo, a laid-back retro outdoor cinema, complete with popcorn in paper cones. Films are screened on Wednesday and Saturday nights, with old school Merrie Melodies cartoons and other shorts tossed in to the mix.

Hotel guests watch for free, otherwise it's R50 a head for a director's chair seat - or splash out at R200 for a VIP seat in the front row on the leather sofa (VIPs get drinks and snacks included, others fork out at the cash bar nearby).

This has got to be one of the best places in town to give a red carpet screening of any authentically independent film - film students, amateurs or just tight cliques of the cinematic uber-who's-who will love the spot.

Right now, the lineup is The Big Blue, Taxi Driver, The Endless Summer, It's a Wonderful Life, and The Good, The Bad and The Ugly. Follow them on Twitter (@pinkflamingocin) and get specials like free tequila shots for The Good, The Bad and The Ugly.

Fun, creative, unpretentious - perfect Cape Town.

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Sunday, December 6

Emporio Leone

There's a new addition to make to my very popular posting on the bakeries of Cape Town, and that is Emporio Leone, in the new section of Cape Quarter in De Waterkant. Fruit mince pies, tarts, glacee fruit, savory biscuits and sweet, chocolate coated candied ginger...lovely treats for an adult palate. Beautifully presented, fresh, and - perhaps best of all - fairly priced. Yum.

The Leone family have been making delicious Italian-style baked goods in Cape Town on the wholesale side for twenty years, started by mother Jackie. Their panforte, chocolate salami, meringues and other delicacies have been on the shelves of Melissa's, Giovanni's and other high-end foodie shops and cafes for years and years. With the recent opening of the giant new extension to the Cape Quarter development (which is a mixed blessing to the city and the neighbourhood I must say - a 6 on a scale of 1 to 10 to my mind and reeking with missed opportunities), the Leone's have decided to go retail, opening their first storefront. It is likely to be the only reason I'll frequent that part of Cape Quarter as a local.

Son Dylan was tending the shop on a Sunday, smart in his apron and tie, both professional and good-humoured, and I hope the family touch stays strong in this venture. It is a retail boutique only, no coffee service or tables, FYI.



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Monday, November 16

Indigenous Tourism Website Award 2010

The Indigenous Tourism and Biodiversity Website Award is a collaborative effort between Planeta.com and the Secretariat of the Convention on Biological Diversity/UNEP (CBD) with the support from the Heidehof Foundation.

Nominations for the award are open through the end of November 2009.

The award is aimed at private tourism services, owned and operated by indigenous and local communities embodying traditional lifestyles, and its main objectives are to motivate candidates to improve their online communication on biological and cultural diversity, to highlight their best practices in managing tourism in a biodiversity-friendly way and to raise operators and public’s awareness on biodiversity.

Check out the details at http://planeta.wikispaces.com/itbw

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